Lampang

Discovering Lampang

Most travelers drive through Lampang on the highway between Chiang Mai and Bangkok without stopping. I almost did the same — the city does not appear on most Thailand itineraries, and the guidebook summaries reduce it to a single line about horse carriages. But a Thai friend in Chiang Mai told me that Lampang was her favorite city in the north, the one she goes back to when she wants to eat well and walk slowly without dodging tuk-tuks full of tourists. That recommendation was enough to reroute a day.

Lampang sits in a wide valley along the Wang River, about 100 km southeast of Chiang Mai. The old town retains a collection of teak shophouses and Lanna-style temples that would be famous anywhere else but here go largely unnoticed because the bigger northern cities absorb all the attention. Horse-drawn carriages clip-clop through the streets — not as a tourist performance but as a genuine civic tradition. Lampang is the last city in Thailand where horse carriages remain part of daily life, and the provincial seal features a white horse carriage to prove it. The sound of hooves on pavement is the background track to everything here.

What caught me off guard was the ceramics. Lampang province produces the majority of Thailand’s ceramic tableware, and the distinctive rooster-motif bowls — the ones you see in noodle shops and market stalls across the country — originate from factories in this valley. The connection between a bowl of khao soi in Bangkok and a kiln in Lampang is something I had never thought about until I watched a potter hand-paint that rooster onto a plate still warm from the fire. Lampang earns its keep quietly, and that modesty is exactly what makes it worth a stop.

What Makes Lampang Different?

Lampang is what Chiang Mai might feel like if Chiang Mai had never been discovered by the backpacker trail. The population is around 60,000, the old town is compact and walkable, and the ratio of locals to visitors at any given restaurant is roughly twenty to one. There are no cooking class touts on the sidewalks, no elephant pants shops, no Instagram cafes with neon signs. The tourism that exists here is almost entirely domestic Thai visitors who come for the temples and the ceramics, and that shapes the experience in ways that matter — the food is priced for locals, the temples are not roped off for photos, and nobody is trying to sell you anything.

The Lanna heritage is deep and well-preserved. Lampang was one of the Lanna Kingdom’s most important cities, and its temples reflect that status. Wat Phra That Lampang Luang, 18 km southwest of town, is widely considered one of the finest examples of Lanna temple architecture in all of Thailand — older, less restored, and more atmospheric than anything in Chiang Mai. The wooden viharn dates to the early 16th century and contains murals that rank among the oldest surviving Buddhist paintings in northern Thailand. If you visit only one temple outside Chiang Mai on a northern loop, this should be the one.

Temples and Cultural Heritage

Wat Phra That Lampang Luang is the headline attraction and it earns the reputation. Located 18 km southwest of town in the Ko Kha district, this fortified temple complex sits on a hilltop surrounded by ancient walls. The main viharn, built around 1476, is an open-sided wooden structure with massive teak columns and a tiered roof that exemplifies the Lanna architectural style at its peak. The murals inside — faded but intact — depict Jataka tales and scenes of daily life from the Lanna period. In the small chapel behind the main viharn, a camera obscura effect projects an inverted image of the chedi onto the wall through a tiny hole — one of the more unexpected sights in any Thai temple. Entry is free, though donations are appreciated. Dress modestly and remove shoes. The temple sees few foreign visitors despite being one of the most significant in northern Thailand. 20 THB ($0.55) for the songthaew ride from town, or an easy 20-minute scooter ride.

Wat Phra Kaeo Don Tao sits in the center of Lampang’s old town and once housed the Emerald Buddha — the same sacred image now kept at Bangkok’s Grand Palace — for 32 years during the 15th century. The Burmese-style chedi and the Lanna Museum on the grounds are worth 30-40 minutes. Free entry. The temple is a standard stop on the horse carriage city tour route.

Baan Sao Nak (Many Pillars House) is a 19th-century teak mansion built on 116 teak pillars. The interior displays northern Thai antiques, textiles, and household items from the Lanna aristocracy. Entry 30 THB ($0.85). A 10-minute walk from the old town center.

What to Do in Lampang

Horse Carriage City Tour — Lampang’s signature experience. Carriages line up near Ratsadaphisek Bridge and offer 30-60 minute loops through the old town, passing teak shophouses, riverside temples, and the Talad Gao heritage district. 200-500 THB ($5.70-14) per carriage depending on route length. The drivers double as informal guides, pointing out historic buildings and local landmarks along the way.

Thai Elephant Conservation Center — Located 30 km northwest of Lampang in the Thung Kwian forest, this is Thailand’s first government-run elephant hospital and one of the most ethical elephant experiences in the country. The center rehabilitates injured and abandoned elephants and runs educational bathing and feeding programs for visitors. Entry 200 THB ($5.70). Bathing programs 500-2,000 THB ($14-57) depending on duration. Open daily 8 AM to 3:30 PM. A world apart from the commercial elephant camps.

Ceramic Factory Visits — Lampang’s ceramic industry spans dozens of factories and small studios across the province. Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum (entry 50 THB / $1.40) combines a working factory tour with a museum explaining the history of Thai ceramics and Lampang’s rooster bowl tradition. You can paint your own bowl for 100-200 THB ($2.85-5.70). Several factories along the highway south of town offer showrooms with direct-from-kiln pricing.

Kad Kong Ta Walking Street — Every Saturday and Sunday evening from 4 PM to 9 PM, the old Talad Gao road along the Wang River fills with food vendors, craft stalls, and live music. The food leans northern Thai — sai oua sausage, khao kha moo (braised pork leg on rice), sticky rice with dipping sauces. Most dishes 30-60 THB ($0.85-1.70). Less polished than Chiang Mai’s Sunday market but more authentic and far less crowded.

Wang River Cycling — Rent a bicycle from guesthouses for 50-80 THB/day and ride the flat riverside paths through the old town and out toward the surrounding farmland. The route south toward Wat Phra That Lampang Luang passes through rice paddies and small villages. Early morning rides are best when the air is cool and the valley is still misty.

Where to Eat in Lampang

• Aroy One Baht — A local favorite on the riverside serving northern Thai classics at prices that make Chiang Mai look expensive. Khao soi, larb muang, and gaeng hang lay (Burmese-influenced pork curry) are all excellent. Mains 40-80 THB ($1.15-2.30). Cash only. Open lunch and dinner.

• Lampang Indra Hotel Restaurant — Slightly more upscale but still affordable, this hotel restaurant near the old town serves both northern Thai and central Thai dishes. The gaeng hang lay is rich with tamarind and ginger, and the yum tua plu (winged bean salad) is a standout. Mains 60-150 THB ($1.70-4.30). Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

• Talad Gao Night Market — The riverside street food stalls near Kad Kong Ta serve some of the best casual eating in northern Thailand. Grilled pork skewers, khao kha moo, mango sticky rice, and fresh coconut ice cream. Most items 20-50 THB ($0.55-1.40). Best on weekends when the walking street is in full swing.

• Baan Rim Wang — A wooden house converted into a riverside cafe, known for its Thai coffee and pastries in the morning and rice dishes at lunch. The terrace overlooks the Wang River and the old teak warehouses on the opposite bank. Coffee 40-60 THB ($1.15-1.70), meals 50-100 THB ($1.40-2.85). A good spot to slow down and watch the river.

Where to Stay in Lampang

• Riverside Guest House — A teak house on the Wang River with a garden terrace and home-cooked breakfast. Rooms are simple but clean, with air conditioning and hot water. The owners are a wealth of local knowledge — they arrange ceramic factory visits and temple trips. 600-1,000 THB ($17-28) per night. Best for budget and mid-range travelers.

• Lampang Wiengthong Hotel — A reliable mid-range hotel in the town center with a pool, restaurant, and clean modern rooms. Walking distance to the Night Bazaar and horse carriage stands. 800-1,500 THB ($23-43) per night. Nothing flashy but comfortable and well-located.

• Pin Hotel — The closest thing Lampang has to a boutique hotel. Modern design in a renovated building near the old town, with a rooftop terrace and good coffee shop on the ground floor. 1,200-2,000 THB ($34-57) per night. The rooms are compact but stylish, and the staff speaks English well.

• Wianglakor Hotel — A comfortable upper-mid-range option with Lanna-style decor, a garden pool, and a restaurant serving northern Thai dishes. Located slightly outside the old town center. 1,500-3,000 THB ($43-85) per night. Good for travelers who want a quieter setting with some polish.

The Quiet Province

Lampang does not compete for attention. It does not have Chiang Mai’s night markets or Chiang Rai’s art temples or Pai’s backpacker energy. What it has is something harder to find: a northern Thai city that still functions primarily for the people who live there. The ceramics factories fire their kilns whether tourists visit or not. The horse carriages run because they have run for over a century, not because someone decided they would make good photos. The temples stand among the most significant in the Lanna world and charge nothing for entry. If you are traveling between Chiang Mai and Sukhothai, or looking for a detour that rewards curiosity over spectacle, Lampang is the stop most people miss and some people never forget.