Koh Samet

Discovering Koh Samet

I arrived on Koh Samet on a Tuesday afternoon in February, stepping off a speedboat onto a wooden pier that jutted out over water so clear I could count the fish beneath it. Behind me, three hours of Bangkok highway and a dusty pier town called Ban Phe. Ahead of me, a narrow island draped in casuarina trees, fringed with white sand beaches that curved into rocky headlands, and quiet enough that the loudest sound was the hum of a longtail motor crossing the bay. It was hard to believe that the skyscrapers of Sukhumvit were less than 200 kilometers northwest.

That proximity is the entire point of Koh Samet. This is the closest real island to Bangkok — not a beach town on the mainland like Pattaya or Hua Hin, but an actual island surrounded by the Gulf of Thailand, with no cars on half its roads and no high-rises breaking the tree line. For the millions of people who live and work in Bangkok, Koh Samet is the escape valve. When the city heat becomes unbearable, when the workweek grinds you down, when you need to see the ocean before Monday morning — you drive to Ban Phe, catch a boat, and by lunchtime you are lying on white sand watching a longtail slide across turquoise water. It is the simplicity of the equation that makes it work.

The island’s character shifts depending on when you visit. On weekends — especially long weekends and Thai public holidays — Koh Samet transforms into a party. Sai Kaew Beach fills with Bangkok twenty-somethings, Bluetooth speakers compete for volume, and the fire show draws a crowd thick enough to block the sand. Visit on a Tuesday or Wednesday and the same beach is half-empty, the bars play music at a conversational volume, and you can claim a stretch of sand with nobody within thirty meters. I have done both. The weekday version is the one that keeps pulling me back.

What Makes Koh Samet Different?

Koh Samet is not Thailand’s most beautiful island. It does not have the towering limestone karsts of Krabi, the diving reefs of Koh Tao, or the full-moon party energy of Koh Phangan. What it has is accessibility. From central Bangkok, you can be on a beach in under four hours without stepping on an airplane. No other Thai island comes close to that — Koh Chang is six hours by road, Koh Samui requires a flight or a 12-hour overnight bus-and-ferry combo, and the Andaman coast islands are another country in terms of travel time. Koh Samet is the only island in Thailand where a Friday-night departure and a Sunday-afternoon return gives you a genuine two-day beach vacation.

The island also benefits from a microclimate that keeps it drier than the mainland. Koh Samet sits in a rain shadow and receives significantly less rainfall than Rayong province just across the water. Even during Thailand’s wet season (June to October), the island often stays dry while the mainland is under grey skies. This makes it a reliable beach destination nearly year-round — a rarity in a country where most island destinations shut down half their hotels during monsoon season.

Size matters too. Koh Samet is small — about 6.5 kilometers long and 2.5 kilometers at its widest. You can walk from the main pier to the southern tip in two hours, or rent a motorbike and cover the whole island in an afternoon. That compactness means you are never far from a different beach with a different vibe. Tired of the crowd at Sai Kaew? A ten-minute walk south puts you on Ao Phai. Another ten and you reach Ao Wai, where the only sounds are waves and birdsong. The island rewards exploration on foot in a way that larger destinations simply cannot.

Which Beaches Should You Visit on Koh Samet?

The beaches line the eastern coast like pearls on a string, each cove separated by rocky headlands and connected by a dirt path through the trees. The western coast has only one real beach — Ao Phrao — which catches the sunset.

Sai Kaew Beach (Hat Sai Kaew) is the main beach, the longest, and the first one you hit from the pier. The sand is white and fine, the water is calm and swimmable, and the beachfront is lined with restaurants, bars, and guesthouses. This is where the fire shows happen every night around 9 PM — performers spinning flaming ropes, doing fire limbo, and juggling torches on the sand while the audience sits on mats with bucket cocktails. On weekdays, Sai Kaew is genuinely pleasant. On weekends, it can feel like a Bangkok nightclub relocated to the sand.

Ao Phai sits just south of Sai Kaew, separated by a rocky headland with a short path over it. The vibe here is more backpacker than weekender — cheaper bungalows, a few reggae bars, and a smaller crowd. The beach is narrower but the water is just as clear. Silver Sand Bar at the northern end has been serving cheap cocktails to budget travelers since before I first visited. This is where I would stay on a budget.

Ao Wai is a 25-minute walk south of Ao Phai (or a quick longtail ride), and it is the beach that made me fall for Koh Samet. A crescent of white sand backed by jungle, with only one resort (Samet Ville) and no beach bars. The snorkeling off the rocks at the northern end is the best on the island — clownfish, parrotfish, and soft coral in waist-deep water. On a weekday, I had this entire beach to myself for three hours.

Ao Kiu Na Nok at the southern tip is the most remote beach reachable by the dirt road. The sand is coarse and the walk is long, but the isolation is genuine — most visitors never make it this far. The Paradee Resort sits here, the island’s only luxury property, with a private stretch of sand that feels like it belongs on a much more exclusive island.

Ao Phrao is the lone western beach, accessible by a paved road across the island’s narrow waist. It catches the sunset directly over the mainland, and the two resorts here (Le Vimarn Cottages and Ao Phrao Resort) are upscale and quiet. The beach is small but the sunset view — the sun dropping behind the Rayong coast while the sky turns from gold to purple — is the best on the island.

What Are the Best Things to Do on Koh Samet?

Koh Samet is not an activity-heavy island. The appeal is the simplicity — beach, swim, eat, watch the fire show, sleep. But for those who need more than a sunbed, here is what earns your time.

Sai Kaew Beach Fire Shows — Every night around 9 PM, fire performers set up on the sand in front of the beachfront restaurants. Fire spinning, fire limbo, fire juggling, and a crowd participation segment that usually involves a tourist attempting (and failing) the limbo with a flaming bar. It is free to watch — just buy a drink from one of the beach bars and sit on a mat. The shows run for about 45 minutes and the skill level is legitimately impressive. Best viewed with a bucket cocktail (150-200 THB / $4-6) from Ploy Talay or Jep’s Bar.

Island-Hopping by Speedboat — Longtail boats can be hired from Sai Kaew or the main pier for 800-1,500 THB ($23-43) for a half-day tour hitting three or four beaches on the southern coast. The boat drops you at Ao Wai for snorkeling, swings around to Ao Kiu for photos, and returns via Ao Phrao for sunset. Snorkel gear is included or can be rented for 100 THB ($3). This is the best way to see the beaches you would not walk to on your own.

Sunset Viewpoint at Ao Phrao — The road across the island to Ao Phrao passes a viewpoint near the top of the hill with views over both coasts. On foot, it is a 40-minute walk from Sai Kaew. On a rented scooter (300 THB / $8.50 per day), it is ten minutes. The sunset from Ao Phrao’s beach or from Le Vimarn Cottages’ bar is the island’s best — bring your phone charged and a cold Singha.

Snorkeling at Ao Wai — The rocky headlands at both ends of Ao Wai shelter coral gardens with surprisingly healthy reef life for an island this close to the mainland. Bring your own mask or rent one from Samet Ville resort (100 THB / $3). Visibility is best from November to May when the water is calmest. I saw clownfish, blue-spotted rays, and schools of sergeant majors in chest-deep water.

Khao Laem Ya National Park Viewpoint — Technically on the mainland side at Ban Phe, but worth the detour before or after your boat. The viewpoint trail at the national park headquarters (200 THB / $6 entrance for foreigners) gives you a panoramic view of Koh Samet and the surrounding islands. The trail takes 30 minutes and the view from the top is the best perspective on the island’s shape and coastline.

Rent a Scooter and Explore — The island has one main dirt road running north-south. Scooter rental is 300 THB ($8.50) per day from shops near the main pier. The road is unpaved in sections and hilly, so only rent if you are comfortable on a motorbike. The ride from the pier to Ao Kiu at the southern tip takes 25 minutes and passes every beach along the way.

Where to Eat on Koh Samet

Koh Samet’s food scene is simple — Thai seafood, beach bar snacks, and a few places that surprise you with their quality. Prices are 20-30% higher than the mainland because everything arrives by boat, but portions are generous.

• Ploy Talay — The anchor restaurant on Sai Kaew Beach with tables on the sand and a Thai-seafood menu that runs deep. The tom yum goong (220 THB / $6) is loaded with fresh prawns, the pad Thai with crab meat (180 THB / $5) is better than most Bangkok versions, and the grilled squid (200 THB / $6) comes straight off the charcoal grill. Open for lunch and dinner. Best table: front row on the sand, facing the fire show stage.

• Jep’s Restaurant — A Sai Kaew institution run by the same family for over fifteen years. The green curry with prawns (200 THB / $6) is rich and coconutty, the morning glory stir-fry (100 THB / $3) has real wok hei, and the fried whole fish with garlic and pepper (350 THB / $10) feeds two. Cash only. Plastic chairs, sandy floor, excellent food.

• Ao Phai Hut Restaurant — The backpacker beach’s best kitchen. Cheap, generous portions and a menu that covers every Thai standard reliably. The massaman curry (160 THB / $4.50) and the banana pancakes (80 THB / $2.30) at breakfast are the highlights. Beer Singha for 80 THB ($2.30). Open from 7 AM.

• Le Vimarn Cottages Restaurant — The most upscale dining option on the island, perched on Ao Phrao’s western beach with sunset views. The seafood barbecue platter for two (1,200 THB / $34) features tiger prawns, squid, fish, and crab with three dipping sauces. The cocktail list is more sophisticated than anything on the east coast beaches. Reserve a sunset table.

• Baywatch Bar & Restaurant — Midway between Sai Kaew and Ao Phai, this low-key beach bar serves reliable Thai food and cold beer at fair prices. The som tam (80 THB / $2.30) is fiery and authentic, the chicken satay (120 THB / $3.40) comes with proper peanut sauce, and the fruit shakes (60 THB / $1.70) use real fruit. The hammocks out front are free for customers.

For a deeper dive into Thailand’s regional cuisine and street food culture, see our cuisine guide.

Where to Stay on Koh Samet

Accommodation on Koh Samet ranges from basic bamboo bungalows to a single genuine luxury resort. Most properties are small, family-run, and right on the beach. Book ahead for weekends — walk-ins work on weekdays.

• Naga Bungalows — Basic but clean fan bungalows set back from Ao Phai beach in a shaded garden. The rooms are simple — bed, mosquito net, fan, cold-water shower — but the price is right at 500-800 THB ($14-23) per night. The beach is a 30-second walk. Best for backpackers who spend all day on the sand and just need somewhere to sleep.

• Sai Kaew Beach Resort — The largest property on the main beach with rooms ranging from simple garden bungalows to beachfront cottages. The beachfront rooms (2,500-5,000 THB / $70-142) put you directly on the sand, steps from the fire show. The pool is small but the beach access is the real amenity. Book a beachfront bungalow if you can — the garden rooms feel disconnected from the island atmosphere.

• Le Vimarn Cottages & Spa — Elegant teak cottages on Ao Phrao’s western beach, set into the hillside with ocean views. The property is quiet and mature — couples and families, not party groups. The infinity pool overlooks the sunset side of the island. Rooms 4,000-8,000 THB ($113-228) per night. The best mid-to-upper option on the island.

• Paradee Resort — Koh Samet’s only luxury resort, tucked away on Ao Kiu at the island’s southern tip. Private pool villas, a spa, a fine-dining restaurant, and a beach that feels like it was reserved just for hotel guests. Rates 8,000-18,000 THB ($228-510) per night. This is where Bangkok’s elite come when they want an island escape without an airport.

Coming Back to Simple

What I remember most about Koh Samet is not a particular beach or a specific meal — it is the feeling of simplicity that the island imposes on you. There is no shopping mall, no traffic light, no Starbucks. The roads are dirt, the power occasionally flickers during storms, and the internet is slow enough that you stop checking it. For someone who spends most of their life in cities, that enforced disconnection is not a limitation — it is the entire point.

My last evening on the island, I sat on the sand at Sai Kaew watching the fire show for the third time. The same performers, the same moves, the same crowd-pleasing limbo. But the sky behind them was streaked with orange and violet, the waves hissed softly on the shore, and the warm night air smelled like charcoal smoke and frangipani. I had not checked my phone in six hours. I did not want to leave in the morning. And I already knew I would be back — because Bangkok is right there, always right there, and when the city becomes too much, this island is waiting just three and a half hours down the highway.