Koh Phi Phi

Discovering Koh Phi Phi

I first saw Koh Phi Phi from the upper deck of a ferry out of Phuket, and even at a distance the islands looked implausible. Sheer limestone cliffs erupting from water so blue it seemed artificial, draped in jungle that clung to every surface gravity would allow. The boat rounded the headland into Tonsai Bay and the reality of Koh Phi Phi hit all at once: a narrow isthmus barely 200 meters wide connecting two mountainous halves, both sides lined with beach, the strip between them packed with guesthouses, dive shops, tattoo parlors, restaurants, bars, and several thousand people who had come for the same reason I had. This was the most beautiful place I had ever arrived at and simultaneously the most crowded.

That tension defines Koh Phi Phi. The natural landscape belongs in a nature documentary. The cliffs, the bays, the underwater world are genuinely world-class. But Phi Phi Don — the inhabited island — has been a backpacker magnet since before The Beach was filmed here, and the infrastructure has grown organically and chaotically to accommodate them. There are no cars on the island, no roads in the traditional sense, just concrete paths winding between buildings that were rebuilt after the 2004 tsunami wiped the isthmus clean. The result is a place that is simultaneously breathtaking and overwhelming, paradise and party, and your experience depends almost entirely on where you point yourself.

Here is what I learned after three visits: Koh Phi Phi rewards the early riser and punishes the person who never leaves Tonsai. The viewpoint at sunrise, Maya Bay before the tour boats arrive, Bamboo Island on a weekday morning, a longtail to Pileh Lagoon at 7 AM — that is the Phi Phi that earns its reputation. By midday the crowds thicken, by evening the beach bars start thumping, and by midnight Tonsai is a barefoot, fire-spinning, bucket-drinking circus. Both versions of the island are real. You get to choose which one you inhabit.

I would not skip Koh Phi Phi. For all its chaos, the natural beauty here is not replicated anywhere else in the Andaman Sea. Maya Bay genuinely looks the way it does in photographs. The snorkeling at Shark Point is genuinely thrilling. The viewpoint genuinely earns its 30-minute climb. But I would plan carefully, stay on Long Beach instead of Tonsai, and set alarms for sunrise. The best version of Koh Phi Phi belongs to those who wake up before it does.

What Makes Koh Phi Phi Different?

Koh Phi Phi is actually two islands. Phi Phi Don is the inhabited one — the isthmus, the guesthouses, the nightlife, the ferry pier. Phi Phi Leh is uninhabited and contains Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon, Viking Cave, and some of the most dramatic coastal scenery in Southeast Asia. Most visitors see Phi Phi Leh only as a day trip, which means the greatest natural assets are experienced in a few hours. Understanding this split is key to planning well. The beauty is on Phi Phi Leh. The logistics are on Phi Phi Don. Your job is to bridge the gap efficiently.

What separates Phi Phi from other Thai islands is the vertical scale. Koh Samui is rolling coconut hills. Koh Lanta is flat jungle and long beaches. Phi Phi is vertical — 300-meter limestone towers jutting from the sea, cliffs that overhang the water by 20 meters, bays enclosed on three sides by rock walls that turn the water a shade of green that exists nowhere else. The Phi Phi Viewpoint hike (a 30-minute climb up concrete steps from Tonsai) delivers a panorama that has launched a million Instagram posts for good reason: both bays visible at once, the narrow isthmus between them, the ocean stretching to the horizon in every direction. It is one of the great views in Thailand and costs nothing beyond the sweat to reach it.

The underwater world completes the picture. Phi Phi sits in the Andaman Sea’s convergence zone where nutrient-rich currents meet warm tropical water, producing coral coverage and marine diversity that rivals much more remote destinations. Blacktip reef sharks patrol Shark Point in waist-deep water — close enough to photograph with a phone in a waterproof case. Hawksbill turtles cruise the reef at Hin Klang. Leopard sharks rest on the sandy bottom at Bida Nok. You do not need a dive certification to see remarkable marine life here — a snorkel and a longtail boat will do. For site-by-site snorkeling details, see our snorkeling guide.

Where Should You Go on Koh Phi Phi?

Maya Bay is the reason most people come, and since its reopening after a three-year closure for environmental recovery, the experience has fundamentally changed. Visitor numbers are capped at 300 at a time. Swimming in the bay is prohibited — the coral has regrown and the blacktip reef sharks have returned, and the Thai government intends to keep it that way. You arrive by longtail or speedboat, walk along a newly built boardwalk across the back of the island, and descend to the beach through a path cut into the cliff. The 400 THB ($11) entrance fee includes the national park charge. Morning visits before 10 AM have the smallest crowds. Even with the restrictions, standing on that crescent of white sand with the cliffs rising on three sides is a moment that justifies the journey.

Pileh Lagoon is, for my money, the more impressive stop. A near-enclosed bay on Phi Phi Leh’s eastern side, surrounded by sheer limestone walls that rise 100 meters from emerald water so clear you can see the bottom at 15 meters. Tour boats enter through a narrow gap in the cliffs and anchor in the lagoon for swimming and snorkeling. The acoustics inside the lagoon amplify every sound — laughter, splashing, the slap of water on rock — which creates an almost cathedral-like atmosphere. The water color here defies photography. Every picture looks oversaturated, but the reality is more vivid than any screen. Ask your tour operator to schedule Pileh Lagoon early, before the flotilla arrives.

Bamboo Island (Koh Mai Phai) is a flat coral island 5 km north of Phi Phi Don with a ring of white sand beach and a shallow reef ideal for easy snorkeling. The island is part of the national park (400 THB entry) and has no permanent structures beyond a ranger station and a few shelters. Most day tours stop here for lunch and a snorkel session. The coral on the north side is healthy and the water is calm enough for beginners from November through April. On weekday mornings, you might share the beach with fewer than twenty people. Weekends are busier.

Long Beach on Phi Phi Don is the alternative to Tonsai for overnight stays. A 10-minute longtail ride from the pier (or a 20-minute walk over the hill), Long Beach faces east and is separated from Tonsai’s noise by a rocky headland. The sand is clean, the water is swimmable, and the handful of resorts here operate at a lower volume than the isthmus. Monkey Beach is a 15-minute kayak north — a small cove where long-tailed macaques live on the cliffs and occasionally swim out to boats looking for fruit. Do not feed them; they bite.

What to Do on Koh Phi Phi

Maya Bay & Phi Phi Leh Tour — The essential day trip. Full-day longtail tours depart from Tonsai Pier at 9 AM and cover Maya Bay, Pileh Lagoon, Viking Cave (view from the boat — cave entry is restricted), Monkey Beach, and usually a snorkel stop at Loh Samah Bay. 1,200-2,000 THB ($34-57) per person with lunch, snorkeling gear, and national park fees included. Half-day speedboat versions from Phuket or Krabi run 1,800-3,000 THB ($51-86) but spend less time at each stop. Book through your hotel or a Tonsai travel agent.

Phi Phi Viewpoint Hike — A 30-minute climb up concrete steps from the eastern end of Tonsai village to three sequential viewpoints. Viewpoint 1 (free) gives you the classic dual-bay panorama. Viewpoint 2 (30 THB / $0.85) is slightly higher with a wider angle. Viewpoint 3 (20 THB / $0.57) is the summit with 360-degree views. Go at sunrise — the light is golden, the temperature is bearable, and you will have the platforms largely to yourself. Bring water. The climb is not difficult but the steps are steep and there is no shade.

Shark Point Snorkeling — A shallow reef on Phi Phi Don’s southern tip where blacktip reef sharks patrol in 2-3 meters of water. Half-day snorkel trips run 800-1,200 THB ($23-34) per person, or you can hire a longtail from Long Beach for 500-800 THB ($14-23) round trip and snorkel independently. The sharks are habituated to snorkelers and cruise past within arm’s reach. November to April offers the best visibility (10-20 meters). This is genuinely one of the best easy-access shark snorkeling experiences in Thailand.

Bamboo Island Snorkeling — Combine with a Maya Bay tour or hire a longtail from Tonsai (1,500 THB / $43 round trip with 2-hour wait). The shallow reef on the north side has hard coral, clownfish, parrotfish, and juvenile reef sharks. National park fee: 400 THB ($11). Bring your own snorkel gear for better quality than the tour-provided sets.

Diving at Bida Nok and Bida Nai — Twin limestone islets south of Phi Phi Leh with walls dropping to 25 meters, swim-throughs, leopard sharks on the sand, and macro life in the crevices. Two-dive day trips run 3,500-4,500 THB ($100-128). PADI Open Water certification courses start at 9,500 THB ($271) over 3 days. Blue View Divers and Adventure Club are the most established operators — both have multilingual instructors and modern equipment.

Kayaking to Monkey Beach and Wang Long Bay — Rent a kayak from Long Beach (300-500 THB / $8.50-14 for a half day) and paddle north to Monkey Beach (15 minutes) or south around the headland to Wang Long Bay, a hidden cove accessible only by water. The paddling is easy in calm conditions — November to March is ideal. Wang Long Bay has a small beach at low tide and excellent cliff scenery. Bring water and sunscreen.

Where to Eat on Koh Phi Phi

Phi Phi’s food scene is better than it has any right to be for a small island. Competition keeps quality high, and while you will pay 20-30% more than the mainland, the options range from 50 THB street food to 500 THB seafood feasts.

• Pum Thai Restaurant — Set back from the main walking street in Tonsai, Pum serves the best traditional Thai food on the island. The massaman curry with beef (180 THB / $5) is rich and slow-cooked, the green papaya salad (80 THB / $2.30) has real heat, and the pad kra pao with crispy fried egg (120 THB / $3.40) is textbook. The outdoor courtyard is string-lit and calm by Tonsai standards. Open for lunch and dinner.

• Unni’s Restaurant — A Long Beach institution with tables on the sand and a Thai-Scandinavian menu. The grilled barracuda with lime and chili sauce (280 THB / $8) is the standout, caught that morning by local fishermen. The breakfast banana pancakes (100 THB / $2.85) and real espresso (80 THB / $2.30) make this the best way to start a day on Long Beach. Cash preferred.

• Local Food Market (Tonsai) — Behind the 7-Eleven near the pier, a cluster of street food stalls sets up from 5 PM nightly. Pad Thai cooked over charcoal (60 THB / $1.70), grilled chicken skewers (40 THB / $1.15), mango sticky rice (80 THB / $2.30), and Thai iced tea (30 THB / $0.85). This is where the dive instructors and long-term residents eat. No English menus — point at what looks good. Budget 100-200 THB ($2.85-5.70) for a full meal.

• Cosmic Restaurant — An upscale open-air restaurant near Tonsai’s eastern end with elevated Thai cuisine and cocktails. The whole grilled snapper with tamarind sauce (450 THB / $13) feeds two, and the tom kha gai (160 THB / $4.55) is creamy and aromatic without the shortcuts. Cocktails run 200-300 THB ($5.70-8.55). The ambiance — low lighting, wooden decking, sea breeze — makes this the island’s best option for a proper dinner. Reservations recommended in high season.

• Aroy Kaffeine — A Tonsai coffee shop that doubles as the island’s best breakfast spot. Single-origin Thai coffee (90 THB / $2.55), avocado toast (140 THB / $4), and acai bowls (180 THB / $5). The air conditioning alone is worth the visit on a humid day. Opens at 7 AM. Good Wi-Fi. The kind of place where you stop in for coffee and stay for two hours.

Where to Stay on Koh Phi Phi

Location is everything on Phi Phi Don. Tonsai is walkable to everything but noisy until 2 AM. Long Beach is peaceful but requires a longtail or hike to reach restaurants and nightlife. Your choice depends on whether you want to sleep through the party or join it.

• Ibiza House Phi Phi — The best budget option on the island with a pool, air conditioning, and social common areas. Located in central Tonsai, which means bars are close and so is the noise. 600-1,000 THB ($17-28) per night. The rooms are compact but clean, and the pool makes a significant quality-of-life difference after a humid day of hiking and snorkeling. Earplugs recommended for light sleepers. Best for backpackers and solo travelers.

• Phi Phi Cliff Beach Resort — Mid-range rooms built into the cliff at the eastern end of Tonsai with views over the bay. The elevation means you are above the noise, and the pool terrace has one of the best sunset angles on the island. 1,800-3,200 THB ($51-91) per night. The walk down to Tonsai takes five minutes; the walk back up takes ten and involves stairs. Air conditioning, proper hot water, and balconies on the sea-facing rooms. Best for couples who want to be close to Tonsai without sleeping in it.

• Phi Phi The Beach Resort — Beachfront on Long Beach, a 10-minute longtail from Tonsai Pier. The rooms face the water, kayaks are free for guests, and Monkey Beach is a 15-minute paddle away. 2,500-4,500 THB ($71-128) per night. Long Beach is genuinely quiet after dark — the contrast with Tonsai is stark. The on-site restaurant is decent, and Unni’s is a five-minute walk along the sand. Best for travelers who want Phi Phi’s scenery without its soundtrack.

• Zeavola Resort — Phi Phi’s finest property, on Laem Tong Beach at the island’s northern tip. Rustic-luxe teakwood villas surrounded by coconut palms, a private stretch of sand, an excellent restaurant, and a dive center. 6,000-14,000 THB ($171-400) per night. Laem Tong is accessible only by boat — a 20-minute longtail from Tonsai — which means you are entirely separated from the party scene. The resort arranges all transfers and tours. Best for couples and families who want the Phi Phi scenery in a peaceful, high-end setting.

• Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort — A sprawling property on Loh Ba Kao Bay on the northeast coast with bungalows scattered through tropical gardens, two pools, and a long stretch of quiet beach. 3,500-7,000 THB ($100-200) per night. Like Zeavola, the location is boat-access only, which filters out the noise. The resort runs its own snorkeling and dive trips. Good for families and anyone who wants a resort island experience rather than a backpacker one.

The View You Climb For

I climbed to Phi Phi Viewpoint 3 on my last morning, starting at 5:45 AM when the path was empty and the air was still cool enough to breathe. The steps are relentless — there are no switchbacks, just a direct assault on the hillside — and by the time I reached the top my shirt was soaked through and my legs were reminding me that the previous day’s dive trip had not been recovery-friendly.

But the view. Both bays spread below, Tonsai to the west and Loh Dalam to the east, separated by the thin strip of land where every building, every bar, every guest house crowds together. Longtail boats sat motionless on water that shifted from pale green nearshore to deep blue at the horizon. Phi Phi Leh’s cliffs rose to the south, still half in shadow. The sun climbed through a band of cloud and lit the whole scene in one slow sweep, turning the water gold, then turquoise, then that specific Andaman blue that no screen has ever accurately reproduced. I stayed for forty minutes and watched the first boats of the day head out toward Maya Bay, their wakes drawing white lines across the flat water.

Koh Phi Phi is not a quiet island and it is not a secret one. It is crowded, commercialized, and occasionally chaotic. But from that viewpoint in the early morning light, with the cliffs and the bays and the impossible color of the water below, I understood why people keep coming back despite everything. Some places are beautiful enough to survive their own popularity. Koh Phi Phi, remarkably, is still one of them.