Koh Chang

Discovering Koh Chang

I arrived on Koh Chang by car ferry on a Tuesday afternoon, the green mountains rising from the water like a wall. That was the first thing that struck me — how vertical this island is. Most Thai islands announce themselves with flat beaches and coconut palms. Koh Chang announces itself with jungle-covered peaks that climb to over 700 meters, their ridgelines disappearing into cloud even on clear days. The ferry docked at the northern tip and the road immediately began to climb, cutting through dense tropical forest with glimpses of the sea flashing through the canopy below. Within ten minutes I understood why the island felt different. This was not a beach resort that happened to have some trees. This was a mountain range surrounded by ocean, with beaches tucked into the valleys where the jungle finally met the sea.

Koh Chang is Thailand’s third-largest island, after Phuket and Koh Samui, but it has avoided the intensive development that transformed those two into international resort destinations. The interior remains almost entirely wild — seventy percent of the island is protected national park, and the single paved road hugs the western coastline without ever crossing the mountainous center. There are no high-rise hotels, no shopping malls, no airport, and no plans for any of them. The beaches string along the west coast like beads on a necklace, each one slightly quieter than the last, ending at Bang Bao fishing village at the southern tip where the road simply stops and the jungle takes over.

The island’s name means “Elephant Island” in Thai — named for its shape when viewed from the sea, not for any resident elephant population, though ethical elephant sanctuaries have become one of the island’s most popular attractions. That name fits the island’s character: large, unhurried, and quietly powerful. Koh Chang does not compete with Phuket’s nightlife or Samui’s luxury resort scene. It offers something those islands traded away years ago — the feeling of arriving somewhere that has not yet decided to become something other than what it already is.

I spent eight days on Koh Chang, far longer than I planned, because each time I thought I had seen enough, another waterfall trail opened up, another beach appeared around a headland, another sunset from a different vantage point convinced me to stay one more night. The island rewards the slow traveler. Rush through it and you will think it is pleasant. Linger and you will understand why people come back.

What Makes Koh Chang Different?

Koh Chang’s geography sets it apart from every other major Thai island. While Samui and Phuket are relatively flat and fully circled by roads, Koh Chang’s mountainous spine means the east coast remains almost untouched — accessible only by boat or rough jungle tracks. That inaccessibility has preserved the island in a way that no zoning law could. The development clusters along the west coast beaches, and even there it stays low-rise and spread out, hemmed in by national park boundaries that prevent construction from creeping uphill.

The water around Koh Chang is part of the Mu Koh Chang National Marine Park, which includes over 50 islands and islets stretching south toward the Cambodian border. Koh Rang, an uninhabited island 20 km offshore, has some of the clearest water and healthiest coral in the Gulf of Thailand — visibility regularly hits 15 meters in high season, with sea turtles, reef sharks, and clouds of tropical fish that rival anything on the Andaman coast. For snorkeling details and seasonal conditions across Thailand, check our snorkeling guide.

The island also benefits from a location that most travelers overlook. Trat province, where the ferry departs, sits on the eastern seaboard near the Cambodian border — a region that Bangkok weekenders know well but international tourists largely skip in favor of the southern islands. That geographic blind spot means Koh Chang has fewer package tour groups, lower hotel prices, and a more authentic Thai island atmosphere than destinations with comparable natural beauty. A beachfront bungalow that would cost 5,000 THB on Samui runs 2,000-3,000 THB here. A seafood dinner for two that would be 1,500 THB in Phuket costs 600-800 THB on Koh Chang. The value is genuine and consistent.

Which Beaches Should You Visit on Koh Chang?

The beaches line up along the western coast from north to south, and like Koh Lanta, the rule is simple: the further south you go, the quieter it gets.

White Sand Beach (Hat Sai Khao) is the island’s main beach — a long crescent of pale sand backed by the densest concentration of hotels, restaurants, bars, and mini-marts on the island. The water is warm and swimmable year-round during high season, and the beach is wide enough that it never feels overcrowded even at peak. The northern end is quieter and more upscale; the southern end has the liveliest bar scene. If you are visiting Koh Chang for the first time and want convenience plus good sand, this is where you base yourself.

Klong Prao Beach is my personal favorite — a long stretch of sand split by a small estuary where a mangrove-lined klong (canal) meets the sea. The beach is quieter than White Sand, the water is calm and shallow for a long way out, and the coconut palm backdrop feels like the Thailand of travel posters. Several mid-range and upscale resorts line the beach but there is plenty of space between them. The mangrove area at the south end is excellent for kayaking at dawn when kingfishers and herons hunt in the shallows.

Kai Bae Beach has a relaxed village atmosphere with small guesthouses, beachfront restaurants, and views of the offshore islands — Koh Man Nai sits just a few hundred meters from shore and you can kayak there in 20 minutes. The beach is narrower than White Sand or Klong Prao but the water is clear and the sunset views, framed by the silhouettes of offshore islets, are some of the best on the island.

Lonely Beach (Hat Tha Nam) earned its name decades ago when it was genuinely remote. Today it is the backpacker hub, with budget bungalows, beach bars playing reggae, and a social scene that is lively without approaching Koh Phangan levels. The beach is small and rocky in places, but the atmosphere and the low prices — 400-800 THB ($11-23) for a bungalow — draw budget travelers from across the island.

Bailan Bay and Bang Bao at the southern end are the quietest options. Bailan is a small cove popular with yoga retreats and long-stay visitors. Bang Bao is a fishing village built on stilts over the water, with a wooden boardwalk of seafood restaurants and dive shops stretching over the bay. It is not a swimming beach, but the sunset dinner on the pier — fresh crab over water so clear you can watch fish beneath your table — is one of Koh Chang’s best experiences.

What Are the Best Things to Do on Koh Chang?

Koh Chang’s activities split neatly between its mountains and its ocean. Both are excellent, and a week here lets you alternate between jungle mornings and sea afternoons without repeating yourself.

Klong Plu Waterfall — The island’s most accessible and most impressive waterfall, a 20-minute walk from the trailhead near Klong Prao. The main cascade drops into a deep natural pool that is perfect for swimming — cold, clear water surrounded by boulders and towering jungle trees. Entrance 200 THB ($5.70) as part of the national park fee. Go in the morning before 10 AM for the best light and fewer people. The trail is well-maintained with steps and handrails. Bring water shoes and mosquito repellent.

Snorkeling at Koh Rang — The highlight of any Koh Chang water trip. Koh Rang sits within the marine national park and offers the archipelago’s best underwater visibility — 10 to 15 meters on good days, with healthy hard and soft coral, parrotfish, clownfish, angelfish, and regular sea turtle sightings. Full-day speedboat trips from Bang Bao pier run 1,200-2,000 THB ($34-57) per person including lunch, snorkel gear, and national park fee. The trip typically covers three or four snorkel stops across Koh Rang and neighboring islands. November to April only.

Sea Kayaking at Salak Phet Bay — The southeast coast of Koh Chang is a world apart from the tourist beaches — mangrove forests, fishing villages on stilts, and a wide bay where the water is flat and warm. Half-day guided kayak tours run 800-1,200 THB ($23-34) and paddle through mangrove channels where monitor lizards, crabs, and tropical birds are the only company. Salak Phet village itself is worth exploring for its authentic fishing community atmosphere and cheap seafood restaurants.

Koh Chang Elephant Jungle Sanctuary — An ethical encounter where you walk with rescued elephants through their jungle habitat, feed them sugarcane and bananas, and watch them bathe in a forest stream. No riding, no chains, no performances. The half-day program costs 1,800-2,500 THB ($51-70) per person with hotel pickup and a guide who knows each elephant by name and history. Book at least a day ahead during high season. This is the right way to see elephants in Thailand.

Koh Chang Night Market (White Sand Beach) — Every Friday and Saturday evening, a night market sets up along the main road at the south end of White Sand Beach. Grilled seafood skewers 40-80 THB ($1.15-2.30), pad Thai 50-70 THB ($1.40-2), mango sticky rice 60 THB ($1.70), fresh coconut ice cream 50 THB ($1.40), and Thai handicrafts. The atmosphere is casual and family-friendly — a solid evening out without the bar scene.

Than Mayom Waterfall — On the quieter east coast, this waterfall is notable for the royal insignias carved into the rocks by Kings Rama V and Rama VII during visits in the early 1900s. The trail is an easy 30-minute walk through primary forest. The waterfall itself is more photogenic than swimmable, but the history and the solitude of the east coast make it worth the trip. Entrance included in the national park fee (200 THB / $5.70).

Where to Eat on Koh Chang

Koh Chang’s food scene is unpretentious and seafood-driven. The island’s fishing fleet still operates daily, and the difference between fish that was caught this morning and fish that was frozen shows up on every plate.

• Invite Restaurant — A small Thai restaurant on the road behind White Sand Beach, run by a couple who cook everything from scratch. The massaman curry with chicken (150 THB / $4.25) is rich and slow-cooked, the stir-fried morning glory with garlic (70 THB / $2) arrives still sizzling, and the tom kha gai (120 THB / $3.40) is coconut-heavy and fragrant. No frills, no ocean view — just excellent Thai food at fair prices.

• Nong Bua Seafood — Bang Bao’s best pier restaurant, with tables on the wooden boardwalk overlooking the bay. Point at the fish in the tank and they grill it for you. Steamed sea bass with lime and chili 250-350 THB ($7-10), grilled tiger prawns 400 THB ($11), and crab fried rice 180 THB ($5). The setting — eating over clear water with fishing boats docked beside you — is half the experience. Cash preferred.

• Oodie’s Place — A beachfront restaurant and bar on Klong Prao that serves Thai-international food with reliable quality. The green curry with prawns (180 THB / $5) is properly spicy, the fish tacos (200 THB / $5.70) are surprisingly good, and the grilled whole fish of the day (250-400 THB / $7-11) is the move if you are hungry. Cold beers and fruit shakes. Tables in the sand at sunset.

• Barrio Bonito — A quirky Mexican-Thai fusion restaurant on Lonely Beach that sounds like a gimmick but delivers. The fish burritos (180 THB / $5) use fresh-caught white fish, the som tum tacos (120 THB / $3.40) actually work, and the margaritas (180 THB / $5) are strong and well-made. The crowd skews young and backpacker, the music is good, and the porch seating catches the evening breeze.

• Kai Bae Hut Seafood — A family-run place on Kai Bae beach road with a Thai-only menu and prices to match. Pad kra pao with fried egg 60 THB ($1.70), green curry 80 THB ($2.30), and their signature deep-fried whole fish with three-flavor sauce 200 THB ($5.70). This is where local Thais eat, which tells you everything about the quality. Lunch is the best time — the cook is freshest, the fish is just in from the morning boats.

Where to Stay on Koh Chang

Koh Chang’s accommodation ranges from 300 THB bamboo huts on Lonely Beach to hillside pool villas at 15,000 THB, and the quality-to-price ratio beats the more famous islands at every level. The best strategy is to pick a beach first, then find a hotel — each beach dictates the type of experience you will have.

• Pajamas Hostel — A clean, social hostel on the main road near White Sand Beach with air-conditioned dorms, personal lockers, and a common area that buzzes with backpackers swapping island tips. The rooftop has hammocks and a view of the mountains. 300-500 THB ($8.50-14) per night. Best for solo travelers and budget backpackers.

• Klong Prao Resort — A mid-range property set between the mangrove klong and the beach, with simple but comfortable bungalows surrounded by tropical gardens. The pool is small but well-maintained, and you are steps from Klong Prao’s best swimming area. 1,500-3,000 THB ($43-85) per night. The sweet spot between budget and splurge.

• KC Grande Resort & Spa — The flagship property on White Sand Beach with two pools, a full-service spa, beachfront restaurant, and rooms that range from garden-view standards to sea-view suites. The location is unbeatable — dead center on the best stretch of White Sand with the beach literally outside your door. 3,000-6,000 THB ($85-170) per night.

• The Dewa Koh Chang — Hillside luxury at Klong Prao with pool villas set into the jungle canopy. The infinity pool overlooks the bay, the Thai restaurant serves the island’s best fine dining, and the seclusion is genuine — birdsong instead of traffic, green in every direction. 5,000-12,000 THB ($142-340) per night. Worth it for couples and honeymoons.

• Santhiya Tree Koh Chang Resort — A traditional Thai-style resort on the quiet southern coast, built with reclaimed teak and overlooking a private beach. The villas have private pools and outdoor bathtubs, the spa uses Thai herbal treatments, and the isolation — 30 minutes south of White Sand Beach by road — is the entire point. 8,000-18,000 THB ($227-510) per night. The most luxurious property on the island.

Day Trips to Koh Mak and Koh Kood

Koh Chang is the largest island in an archipelago that stretches south toward Cambodia, and two of its neighbors offer excellent day trips or overnight extensions.

Koh Mak (45 minutes by speedboat, 500-800 THB / $14-23 each way) — A flat, quiet island with rubber plantations, a handful of small resorts, and beaches that are genuinely empty on weekdays. Koh Mak has positioned itself as Thailand’s first “low carbon destination,” which means no jet skis, no loud music, and a bicycle-paced rhythm. The snorkeling at Koh Kham, a tiny island connected to Koh Mak by a sandbar at low tide, is excellent. Day trips work, but an overnight stay lets you experience the island’s stillness after the day-trippers leave.

Koh Kood (1-1.5 hours by speedboat, 700-1,200 THB / $20-34 each way) — Thailand’s fourth-largest island and arguably its most beautiful. Koh Kood has the white sand, clear water, and coconut palm backdrop of a Maldives postcard, but with Thai food, Thai prices, and none of the overwater-villa pretension. Klong Chao waterfall drops into a swimming pool in the jungle. The fishing village of Ban Ao Salad serves fresh crab for 200 THB. And the beaches — especially Ao Tapao and Ao Klong Chao — are the kind of empty, palm-fringed crescents that travel photographers dream about. If Koh Chang is Thailand’s under-appreciated island, Koh Kood is its best-kept secret.

Both islands are accessible from Bang Bao pier and from the mainland at Laem Sok pier in Trat. In high season, Boonsiri runs a high-speed catamaran connecting all three islands.

When Koh Chang Gets Under Your Skin

I did not expect Koh Chang to be the island I thought about months later. I had come for a few days as a detour between Bangkok and Cambodia, planning to check the beaches and move on. Instead I found myself extending, then extending again, drawn in by the combination of wildness and ease that the island manages so naturally. One morning I hiked to Klong Plu waterfall alone, swam in the cold pool beneath the cascade while sunlight filtered through the canopy, and walked back to the beach in time for lunch at a roadside restaurant where the total bill was 120 THB ($3.40). That ratio — genuine natural beauty followed by authentic Thai hospitality at honest prices — is what Koh Chang offers every day.

The island has not yet become what Phuket became or what Samui is becoming. Whether it will is anyone’s guess. But right now, in this window, Koh Chang is the Thai island that delivers on the original promise: mountains, jungle, warm water, good food, friendly people, and the time to enjoy all of it without fighting crowds or emptying your wallet. Come before the secret gets out.